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You did need to do all that. I made a custom boot and shroud and get near zero dust. If you want I’ll help you out check yer email

The decision for tote storage vs fixed boils down to if you work in a shop or in a job site. Very nice shop design.

I clicked on the video because I just got 2 kittens and need to not have the smell

Great suggestions but I don't have a CNC or a 3-D Printer.

Agreed, brilliant system

Another place you can put stuff. My outfeed table is a table. Under that table is my dust collector. I also have planes mounted vertically to the legs. I also have clamps and tools hanging under the table. Multiuse: I use the table as a clamp and glue up table as that is all the space that I have for that. You have some excellent points for organization!

I use those circular containers for a lot of things: Putting parts into them when taking stuff apart. Washing parts. Finish buckets when I am finishing stuff. I throw them afterward if I don't feel like cleaning. I cut them down to the size that I need. Brush holder: old tooth brushes, brash and steel brushes. Can put screw drivers and pliers into them if you don't want them all over your bench. I have a misc bolt bin for bolts that I have taken off equipment that I don't want in my normal inventory but still want to save. A lot of automotive/machinery fasteners tend to be special and not available at a hardware store. I have lost track of the times that I needed something that I found in that bin after 20 minutes or so of searching. I hope that helps.

This was an awesome video with great detailed explanations. I am definitley going to try this. One question, can the voltage sensor work on a 220v tool? Would you just connect one of the black wires and that is enough to sense the current with one leg of the circuit?

great design .. where can get the link for the blue print??

This is seriously impressive man. So functional. Not sure I have the skill to pull it off myself but it's definitely inspiring me to get my ambitions and capabilities mixed up and try!! 😂

Dude. This is amazing. Subscribed for sure.

Watching you use a table saw gives me anxiety. Your lucky you still have all your fingers.

I figure I should share this. I’ve come back to your channel about 12-15 times in the last 10 months referencing your workshop organization series and speaking of it to friends. I think the most valuable piece is how you explain your sort of troubleshooting piece of what you’ve tried and what you’ve learned. That’s such a massive time saver for me and at a level of detail I can’t begin to say thank you for relaying. Thank you, thank you, thank you. From your 10x viewer and subscriber. Cheers.

What extraction do you use?

You're awesome, I love your setup, well done.

This is genius. Impressive. Best I've ever seen. Well done.

Great video. Exactly what I have been looking for. Excellent instructional video. Thank you.

Simply brilliant. I'm speechless. Props to you man....this is amazing ingenuity.

Thank you so much!

Same Problem, Same Blast Gates and Looking For A Solution. Did you look a the new Woodpecker design or the ball valve design? Also use a few piece of toilet paper to test for air leaks. I think you have made vast improvements to the metal gate design. You should sell an overhaul kit.

This is exactly what i was looking for! Thank you!

Best flip system that i have seen and i thank you for let us use your ideas ,other people they want $$$$ for it i dont want mention names and in top of that they are not as good as yours once more THANK YOU

this is a great video and an inspiring solution to the problem of the burned up servo's... can't count how many I have burned up over the past 3 years. I took this concept and wanted to isolate all the intelligence and workings of each gate at the gate, and have minimal intelligence in a centralized controller, so I took your concepts and remixed them to something with a wemos D1 mini and NodeRed. Essentially an Internet of Things network, with orchestration happening in NodeRed. A raspberry pi runs the dust collector relay through a GPIO pin. A suggestion for you to simplify this system, use an AC Current Sensing Switch,Current Sensing Relay 0-30A Normally Closed Current Sensor Monitoring Relay to detect when a machine is turned on. No need to debounce and detect the on / off voltage sink and figure out if the machine is really running. Also removes the challenge of the "ghost" loops created when you remove 1 of your sensors from the electrical circut. This relay generates a 5V signal which you can connect to an INPUT_PULLUP digital pin on the arduino, which then is either HIGH or LOW. If LOW, the machine is pulling current, if HIGH, not enough current to trip the relay (adjustable sensitivity). It simplifies the current detection function to a simple if/then statement. Just a thought to help simplify Bob's original voltage drop sensor

This dude cant say 💩 .. he is absolutely a cat lover...

I just ordered a similar bin solution, but with lids, that open with a flap at the front.

Question: Why are you using multiple layers of magnets? Why not just get stronger magnets and only put one in each hole? Not a criticism, just honestly wondering.

I like, I will build one for my shop, Thanks

Cool! Does it have a router table?

731 and Rings would be a dangerous duo in the woodworking business.

Nice video. But the carelessness for personal safety was terrible.

How do people explain things with such little words? This dude shows a lot and talks a little, but you still understand what is happening.

how about power supply cooling and mcu cooling , is that needed?

This video inspired me to build a similar system for my shop and it seemed to me that its arduino logic must not be very difficult to me and your code needs just a slight adjustment for my shop configuration. Hell i was wrong) Now i am sitting with arduino and 16 relay module trying to figure it out. Getting back and uploading your original code, i have some multiple relay clics on startup when it should be doing absolutely nothing, then one of the relays stays opened for no reason. I can se on Serial Monitor that it constantly scans Miter Saw amp sensor & I can see input signal change to 26 amps when i give it 5v or GND, but absolutely no reaction from relays and to any other A-pin too. The connection is fine, I've checked it with a relay board test code. Should your system be activated by some of buttons or switches i've missed? Thank you

Very good job.

Great idea 👍, one main problem I see with your design is that the magnets are mounted directly to the hose clamp. If you accidentally vacuum a metal object, it will get stuck in your hose due to magnetic force and cannot come out without removing the hose clamp. The solution: Test how strong your magnets are and how far their pulling force extends on a very light metal object. Then measure this distance of pulling force and place a spacer between the hose clamp and the magnet on the hose clamp itself. Second thougth: if you buy barrel chaped magnets and let, one side of the adapter, the magnets stick out of the wood and on the other side you sink them in, you will have a better connetion, by eliminating the sheeringforce, and you get a physical connetion. this is extreamly usefull if you mount a CNC dustshoe with your solution, because magnetic force is only strong in the direktion of the other magnet itself and week against sheeringforce. greetings from Ruhrpott-Germany 🙂

I’m just curious why the ivac automated blast gates were not an option to achieve this same outcome?

What are the racks that youre using to mount the grey bins?

Bro this setup is sick, I'm looking for a solution for my mitre and this might be it. I'm sure there's a way to make it so you can do mitres too, maybe different shaped brushes or something 🤔 I'm gonna have a crack this week Thanks for the vid ❤

Awesome approach! Thank you.

Is this solution for 36" or 52" sawstop?

Ingenious cam system for the casters, the fastening system for the flip top pieces, and the track for clamping. Btw, I would use the extra small place for hanging bandsaw blades.

This is so amazing. I will definitely try to make a little box for my saw. By the way can you or someone else help me out? I'm new to using a miter saw and the one I have is having trouble cutting through 2x4 lumber at 45° angles. It is a ryobi one+ 10" 18v cordless sliding compound miter saw. I switched out the stock 40 tooth ryobi blade with a diablo 60 tooth blade and it is still having trouble cutting through 2x4 lumber. I understand the more teeth the blade has the cleaner the cut. My question is does the amount of teeth on a blade also affect how easily a miter saw cuts through lumber? Will more teeth make it struggle compared to less teeth. If so I will try a blade with less teeth. I know ryobi isn't the best but hopefully it's not the actual machine lacking the power to cut this lumber. If is I guess I'm screwed since I can't return it anymore.

After two years of use, would you change something in your design? (thanks for sharing, it's inspirational!)

I believe that making an initial non-through cut from back to front is preferred as it allows the sawdust a channel to escape through when making your final cut, this should also help with directing the sawdust.

Love it, thanks for sharing

hello I would like to have information on the steel table of your router because I have been looking for this for a long time where did you buy it or have it made and what site I am French and we can't find that here and I love looking at your way for working well done Kind regards Mr Fournieryohann

The magnet bar is a great idea for the bits, I have three of them still in the package. I would have liked to see the cabinet going in and out after it was completed, does it remove fairly easily?

are plans available?

looks like you are building Mother Brain from Metroid